Anna, André et Yann Durrmann, ‘Kastelberg’ Riesling Grand Cru (2023)

Alsace, France— A precise and exacting Riesling from the notoriously steep slate hillside of the Kastelberg. Yellow stone fruit is matched with extreme structure and acidity drawn from the unforgiving terroir.

In the fairytale village of Andlau, tucked away in a valley at the base of the Vosges Mountains, André and Anna Durrmann begin their fantastical winemaking story. Neither having family roots in professional viticulture (a rare occurence in the region), the couple began with 1.5 hectares of vines originally belonging to André’s father, a shoemaker by trade. They slowly expanded over time, acquiring “less desirable” plots surrounding the village—on the steep schist slopes of the Kastelberg or bordering the vast Vosges forests—progressing to 10 hectares situated on 9 distinct micro-terroirs.

In addition to being certified organic since 1998, the domain is founded on André and Anna’s unique passion for agroecology—a focus which has continuously inspired distinct innovations in the vineyards. Amongst the notable presence (and preservation) of natural flora and fauna and sprinkling of planted fruit trees, the vines of certain plots grow on large lyre-shaped posts—introduced by André to increase the foliage surface and thus the reserves of the plant, similar to that of a tree. In further strides towards ultimate biodiversity, a herd of twelve sheep maintains a constant presence in the vines during the winter months, eliminating weeds and providing natural fertilization for the soil—an initiative of their son, Yann.

In 2007, following the completion of a viticulture and oenology degree, Yann Durrmann joined his parents at the domain, providing the decisive link between the vineyards and the cellar. With a long-standing interest in non-additive winemaking (think Frick) and tendance towards perfectionism, Yann introduced a natural methodology to the vinifications, eliminating the use of all oenological products. Bunches for all cuvées are destemmed, with the whites undergoing a brief overnight pellicular maceration before pressing in order to accentuate yeast activity and favor fermentation.

In various above-ground cellars located on hidden side streets surrounding the main cave, vinifications take place in Alsatian foudre and stainless steel. Wines from the year’s vintage are often bottled within six months (and with residual CO2, which preserves naturally!), encapsulating a palpitating energy that remains so singular to the Durrmann name. With notes ranging from tropical to tisane, vibrating, vibrant and often indescribable expressions of each unique cépage and terroir embody the magic of the domain—effortlessly undulating and transporting their audience between a secret past and imaginative future.