Closeries des Moussis, Haut-Médoc (2022)

Bordeaux, France— Closeries des Moussis is a “micro-estate” in the Médoc is run by Pascale Choime and Laurence Alias, who handle the winemaking and farming, respectively. The two women built the winery from scratch, investing their own money and growing their vineyard area from a minuscule 1.5 acres to a modest 5 acres. They work organically and biodynamically in their parcels - a rarity in Bordeaux until fairly recently - plowing with the help of a pair of draft horses named Jumpa and Fée. This is the most classically styled Moussis wine, Bordeaux through and through - plump, dark and juicy with earthy tannins. You could enjoy this solo, but it would be great with Cassoulet.

Closeries des Moussis began in 2009 when Pascale Choime and Laurence Alias were offered to take over a historic 0.4ha plot of pre-phylloxeric vines in Cantenac (a stone’s throw from Margaux) from Michel and Stéphanie Théron of Clos du Jaugueyron. These two women couldn’t refuse such an opportunity: Pascale is a trained oenologist and teacher at the Lycée Agro-Viticole de Bordeaux-Blanquefort, and Laurence is a professional agricultural engineer who specializes in biodiversity and sustainable practices. The two of them got to work straight away and produced their first vintage that very same year.

They have very slowly added to their holdings, having acquired a hectare in Sénéjac back 2011, as well as a tiny plot in Margaux more recently, totaling their holdings to two hectares in all. They received organic certification in 2012, and were later confirmed by Demeter in 2015. All of their vineyard work is done by hand with the assistance of their horse Jumpa. Pascale and Laurence’s union have produced exquisite wines that achieve a vitality and freshness quite rare in Bordeaux. Closeries des Moussis is certified organic (AB) as well as certified biodynamic.